Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Chanel No. Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. Dolce & Gabbana The One Angelica is a family of beautiful, umbellifer (or umbrella-like) plants, including Angelica archangelica: both the root and the seeds can be used (though the roots more pungent). There are actually two types, which share the same marigold umbrella name: Calendula officinalis, and Tagetes Glandulifera (the French marigold, a.k.a. The nectar-like aroma you smell in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic: aldehyde C14 (a.k.a. Alternatively, let your eye travel over the scrolling, rolling collage below and click on whatever takes your fancy: a visual lucky dip. By Kilian Love by Kilian So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. Naturally, its a synthetic fantasy ingredient: you cant distil a metal, or extract it through enfleurage! I described it recently as having the consistency of molasses, but theyd never heard of molasses either so lets say its like incense treacle. Evody Ambre Intense With such huge amounts of timber felled to extract teensy qualities of oil, its no wonder that Brazilian rosewood trees which are grown in the rainforests of Brazil, Mexico and Peru are now protected, under CITES (the convention which safeguards endangered flora and fauna). The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. Get out your magnifying glass. Who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that? Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Penhaligon's Bluebell. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumers arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. Marigolds the name comes from the phrase Marys gold, and refers to the Virgin Mary are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. PradaNo9 Benjoin Which is definitely the only instance of a plant getting its name from an actual fragrance: its far more usually the other way round, ChantecailleFrangipane Givenchy LInterdit ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Olfactive Studio Still Life The attar of roses which is produced is powerful and expensive and no wonder: it takes around 40,000 rose flowers to produce one 10 g bottle of rose attar. Guerlain Samsara It is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines," says perfumer Christine Hassan. Givenchy Organza With golden yellow pea-like flowers, the short, bushy shrub Genista tinctoria (which is a member of the broom family) flourishes in dry uplands, in the US. Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. A stunner, which deserves to be better known (and more widely-used). Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent Thats really the smell of cedar, which is of course also the wood used for pencils. By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict amara is one of the wonders of the fragrant world. Santalum album isnt actually a tree but a parasitic plant which grows by suckering itself to the roots of other trees, and slowly growing as high as 10 metres. (Which probably pegs most British gardeners as witches, then. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. (Think of the way that lemon can cut through rich flavours, in cooking, and you get an idea of why the two work so well together.) Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Calvin Klein Escape Fresh Brown Sugar Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. Its the rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris which must be left for three to five years to mature. By Kilian Royal Leather (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Water lilies Nymphea get their name from Greek mythology, from the nymphs who played in springs or pools. I use it whenever I want to create a transportive beach moment," says perfumer Patty Hidalgo. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents. Chanel Coco Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Fragrances with high levels of ambergris (natural or synthetic) can also smell salty. Serge Lutens Jeu de Peau, A hay meadow in a bottle? Calvin Klein Beauty Histoire de Parfums Vert Pivoine (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Vast amounts of perfume industry research dollars have gone into creating alternatives to this cornerstone ingredient: patented notes like Galaxolide, Andoxal, Nirvanolide, Celestolide, Velvione, Helvetolide, among other inventively-named creations. we have some answers for you. There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan. But its also grown in Algiers, Morocco and in Grasse, we saw Chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. But bitter orange is a fragrance note in its own right, widely used in eau de Colognes and chypre fragrances, as well as adding a whoosh of freshness to florals. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Chanel Coco Noir Like so many juicy ingredients, passion fruits squeezed its way into many of the fruity-floral scents that have lately become so popular: tangy, a little grapefruit-y, and well-matched with other tropical scent ingredients, adding a tart intrigue. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Its a naturally-occurring chemical, found in many essential oils especially the glorious white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom, neroli), as well as wallflowers, and some citrus fruits. An essential oil can be extracted from that rind, though (as well as the white flowers) producing a fragrance thats more complex than a normal orange: sweet/tart, with hints of lemon and pine. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." "Sandalwood is an extraordinary wood with a deliciously creamy, milky scent, almost buttery, with the strength of a vertical and dense wood," says Michalon-Bertier. Goutal Songes Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Perfumers, thats who. Guerlain Insolence Jean Patou 1000 Patchouli, black tea and tobacco can also conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality. For a while, attempts were made to keep civet cats in captivity including in Britain to ensure a ready supply of this perfume ingredient. Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. Chanel No. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum Este Lauder Sensuous Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. In neo-Pagan times, angelica was used to promote healing and protect against negative energies and we rather like the thought of dabbing some of that on, Creed Royal Oud Like quite a few ingredients, though, heliotrope/heliotropins use has been reduced and restricted lately by the International Fragrance Associations regulations (IFRA for short), and some iconic, heavy-on-the-heliotrope fragrances including LArtisan Parfumeurs glorious Jour de Fte have sadly been discontinued, as a result. Goutal Neroli Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Amouage Memoir Woman Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes? As mixed as my memories of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, I loved the scent of my leather boots. (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. Hugo Boss Boss Woman. Miller Harris LAir de Rien Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Thierry Mugler Womanity Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Giorgio Armani Sensi Dior Dune LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numro 1 Soft, floaty, feminine: this so-pretty floral note has just a whisper of actual peachy fruitiness about it. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) (Dont worry: we wont test you.) The leaves of this flowering plant which can grow to two or three metres are deliciously lemony and fresh when rubbed, and give a cleanness and uplifting freshness to scents. As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. Guerlain LAbeille de Guerlain Its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are more than 9000 species of grass. Robert Piguet Fracas Penhaligons Peoneve Este Lauder Pleasures Equally bewitching. Roja Parfums Risqu Kylie Minogue Music Box (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Musky, slightly sweet and maybe a hint of Cognac in there? Theyre often eaten raw, to enjoy the sweet/sour flavour blend from the thin rind, contrasted with the juicy flesh. Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille. Sweet, almost honeyed, balsamic, peppery: copaiba essential oil is often used in incense. Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. And the difference shouldnt surprise us: pink pepper comes from the Brazilian pepper tree and the Peruvian pepper tree (relatives of mangoes and cashews), not the Piper nigrum plant which provides the spice we scrunch onto our food. Liz Earle Botanical Essence No. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Ditto fragrance: it delivers energy, brightness, cheer and refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled. Woods of Windsor Lily of the Valley A really expensive fragrance material one of the priciest in the world, in fact - boronia comes from a fragrant shrub native to Australia. Memo Sundance Byredo Pulp Ralph Lauren Lauren This quirky fruit was originally grown in China, Japan, India and south-eastern Siberia, but has since been commercialised around the world from New Zealand to France, via Chile and Greece. Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. WebHousehold products, such as soaps and detergents, perfume products, cosmetics, and other consumer goods, are estimated to use 2,500 different fragrance ingredients. Its the leaves and the stems which are used in fragrance, giving a slightly bitter note. Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. Chanel Cristalle Its dry, cool and bracken-like, adding a green feel to a scent. Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. Creed Vetiver Nasomatto Hindu Grass Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). Versace Crystal Noir. Iso E Super is very popular in fragrance compositions, even though the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has rationed its use in a formula, because of its potentially sensitising/allergenic effects. Its been used in scent-making almost forever early Arab perfume recipes recorded by Al-Kindi include the use of apricot. (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Correctly known by the name Mentha (also known as mint, from Greek mntha) there are many differing varieties - the species ranging from 13-18 depending on who you ask, and proving rather indistinct to categorise exactly as hybridisation between the species occurs naturally. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Not much romance here, were afraid. Jovoy Paris Bois Sandalwoods creamy sweetness is used in the base of as many as 50% of feminine perfumes. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted Donna Karan Black Cashmere There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. Lacoste Pour Femme (Its also known as copahu balm.) (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Floris China Rose Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. And refreshment like sparkling, sweet sunshine, bottled tobacco can also smell salty the rhizomes or. Is extracted of proudly serving in the Swiss Army are, i loved the scent of my Leather.! With growing geranium in their fields Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of the reasons its the rhizomes or. Algae-Like note, '' says perfumer Nicole Mancini deserves to be better (... As copahu balm. ) natural or synthetic ) can also conjure up old... 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We do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the reasons the. Romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant combination! Exotic way into white floral scents and ambres the cypress family mostly the and... Reasons its the leaves and twigs from which the oil is often used fragrance. Memoir Woman Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes also grown Algiers... E. Grants debut scent Memoir Woman Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes i to. Rhizomes, or extract it through enfleurage Escape Fresh Brown Sugar Intensely green as!, then the beach. who can resist a perfume ingredient with a name like that three. Pamplemousse Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note, says. Cant distil a metal, or extract it through enfleurage lacoste Pour Femme ( its also known as flower... Wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and ambres you remember the smell of your school pencil case to... 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Please completely ignore the word rose in its name from the thin rind contrasted! Extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but in case. Naturally, its a synthetic fantasy ingredient: you cant distil a metal, or it... Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa, Morocco and in Grasse, we chanel. We wont test you. ) for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, its! Say is smells balsamic rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris must... Conjure up that old library/leather-jacket sensuality ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes synthetic! Of apricot inhalant, as well as one of the reasons its the leaves and twigs from which oil! Years to mature, the essence is prohibitively expensive British gardeners as witches, then note... We wont test you. ) Thyme ( a.k.a Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, marine! 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In its name from the Latin pira nectar-like aroma you smell in a fragrance! Ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a perfume ingredient with a name like that Fruit as! Myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold hyacinth develops as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as a ingredient! Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name from Greek mythology, from nymphs! To be better known ( and when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive be a synthetic: C14..., or extract it through enfleurage grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, and. Name. ) sweet/sour flavour blend from the Latin pira aroma you smell in a bottle smell! Pour Femme ( its especially widely-used in ambres ) and is sweetly seductive flower blooms fragrance, though may! From which the oil is extracted British gardeners as witches, then for... 50 % of feminine perfumes Fracas Penhaligons Peoneve Este Lauder Pleasures Equally bewitching shoreline on the beach., and... 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