The full strap I think. All of my shoes are brown suede (no chukka boots, though), so I was thinking of the Alden Jumper cordovan boots you have here. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? $36.00 One Piece Shell Cordovan Belt - Black. Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. And why specifically deer bone? But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. Living in Canada where we have snow (and salt to help melt the snow) for much of the year, Im wondering if cordovan shoes might provide the weather resistance to handle short walks (through a parking lot, to a cafe across the street) while still being smart enough for tailoring in the office. The cork forms a solid filler down the full spine of the sneaker that provides just enough movement to mould to the wearers' feet, with the additional benefits of comfort, stability, and breathable properties throughout the sneaker. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. Someone made this comment above Alex. I rarely wear them with a suit they are not especially sleek or fashionable. In observance of the holiday, we will be closed November 24 th - 25 th there will be no shipping or receiving on these days. Dark Cognac Horween Shell Cordovan. 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. Like suede. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) Pairing black with brown strikes me as the perhaps the ultimate example of knowing the rules and knowing how to break them, and if done wrong could look positively awful. Its certainly thicker than calf. Cordovan is made by shaving tanned horse rumps. Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. Hi Simon, Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. But the sole is thicker too. If any material could, certainly C8 cordovan could. The Madison store didnt nothing for me its just that they stock the shoe on this last, and stores in the UK do not. On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. And if that doesnt work, try a little cream. Thank you, To be honest Hugh I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, and its fine. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. Handsewn. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Thats the most important time. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Natural. Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? I think the thing with the bone is you can get more than just scratches out, or at least more than light scratches. Color. Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Would it, I think for a lot of guys that's too bulky and heavy JB, particularly on a smart trouser, It's probably best to check with B&L - they've changed production I think since this piece, My colours in the Baudoin & Lange Ginkgo loafer. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. This type of data sharing may be considered a sale of information under California privacy laws. Heel: Leather Base and Half Inch Airborne Rubber Heel. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. Original Price USD 150.00 Lovely. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. As Nick Horween told us on that tannery visit, this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. One thing I wonder, is why if one of the advantages is handling rain better than other materials, most of the vendors I have seen make the shoes with leather soles Its like counteracting the advantages of the upper. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above Thank you, Simon. Another model you might want to try is the monk strap. This type of data sharing may be considered a sale of information under California privacy laws. Would you wear these with a black belt (or just stick to going beltless)? Original Price USD 145.00 The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. Shell Cordovan. Wouldnt you say that a black cordovan loafer is more casual than a black calf one, and perhaps comparable to a black suede one? Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. like Weston. P.S. Send me exclusive offers, unique gift ideas, and personalized tips for shopping and selling on Etsy. We recommend checking our Lasts page for a more detailed description of each of the lasts we currently have in production. Ive owner 2 pairs of Cordovan shoes in recent years, one by Churchs (in a plain Derby) and the other by Crockett & Jones (in a Brogue identical to the ones they did for Polo Ralph Lauren). Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? Any particular misgivings about Carmina? Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. Viberg Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan 2030 Stitchdown Serviceboot Brogue Cap Toe. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? Given your helpful thoughts; Ill go w/ the Cordovan. (Worn w/ nice jeans/slacks/sports jacket.) Cordovan is the layer of the hide between the subcutis and dermis. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. Remove Ads. I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. Its a community thing, Hi Simon, All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). $169.90 $169.90. USD 118.80, USD 132.00 This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Do you have any tips to reduce that sound ? Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. Brian. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. The timing could have not been better! It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. Many thanks, I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. I am planning to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? I find it more versatile and its a style I feel is more likely to last longer (I do now and again wonder whether tassels will become a bit fashiony, though I havent felt like that yet). this is all part of the unique finish when using natural materials and the. I dont think Ive seen anybody doing it. Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear tassels casually very well. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? Worth every short term pinch! Shell Cordovan is truly rare and unique material. Yes, I know what you mean. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. I tried to capture in the pictures that the toe looks a little fuller on the dark cognac pair, but it's also quite similar to the cognac calf pair (which is 10D). I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. Ive also ordered Cordovan belts (other colours). And thanks on the vintages, I didnt realise that. Do you think those C&J Harvards or perhaps even some Alden LHSs could adequately fill both roles (of course in Color 8) or at least the role of black pennys? There are lots more things we could say about cordovan: other tanneries, whether the extra expense is worth it, the particular costs of buying Alden in Europe at the moment. Hmm. Mar 11 His & Hers: Waterproof Chelseas Our waterproof Wholecut Chelsea Boot in rust Waxy Commander in stock now for everyone. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. Whats the verdict on the jumper boots? A boot not to be missed by any shell aficionado. . Then some others depending on shades. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Explore by category CORDOVAN BOOTS CORDOVAN OXFORDS SHOES CORDOVAN MONK STRAP SHOES CORDOVAN LOAFERS CORDOVAN DERBY SHOES 48 Items Lasts Leathers Soles NW1) and knitwear though. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. great post, as we are used to it! Im debating getting the same Crockett & Jones Cordovan Harvards that you have. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Mahogany Cordovan. However, just because a shoe works with lots of looks, it doesnt mean youre not losing something, and it is a little unusual as a colour so I can imagine not everyone will like it. Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. Quality Goodyear Welted footwear, made to last at a radical price. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? SKU: SHI-SHEL-BLK-DS11. I recommend doing so - with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want them to look particularly good. And then theres the general quality of workmanship. Same with a pair of Edward Green lovely brown Piccadilly loafers that were on sale for $600 at Bergdorf Goodman. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. The protectionist EU has a long track record of imposing high Common External Tariffs on goods (especially shoes) that are made outside the EU, notably China. What is your take on Crockett and Jones Bradford (Cordovan). Just as fancy patinas have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it. Learn more. Ive resigned to the fact that unique oily finish, with the rolls and that dull glow as you nicely put it, is truly unique. 1. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. ARGYLE SOCKS 28$ Apologies, yes youre right Visa. Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. READ!!!! This age-old process requires skill and patience and is held dear to Crown Northampton's traditional roots. Although not a number 8, I really like those cordovan Vass. Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. I always have to in US sizes. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. I have Aldens tassel loafers in their old hunter green suede. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Due to the natural finishing processes used to create Lactae Hevea soles, there may sometimes be slight imperfections and colour differences from sole to sole. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. In order to give you the best experience, we use cookies and similar technologies for performance, analytics, personalization, advertising, and to help our site function. [2] I havent tried it David, no. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Thank you. Its just a question of whether youre happy with any associations you or others have. Not trying to be a snob! They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? 4 Card Slots, 2 pockets. Obviously I feel very comfortable on my toes if I wear that size but my heels slip as if Im wearing flip flops. The cultural association of shoes is fascinating to me. Thanks Simon! Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Here is a partial list of current shell cordovan colors that Horween offers: Color #8; Black; Dark Cognac; Garnet Is it in general or specifically their cordovan? The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Im somewhat surprised that youve gotten over this aspect yourself and somewhat wish I could follow suit. They havent really changed from this colour to be honest what do you mean by washed exactly? Introducing the Harlestone Hand Stitch Sneaker. If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? When wearing premium leather from the world-famous Horween leather company in Chicago, USA, you go on a journey. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Safe travels to NY. Stay up to date on the latest product releases, special offers & news by signing up for our newsletter. Sometimes, the people that do so like many farmers Ive met have more respect for the animals than anyone else. Sneaker fit is quite forgiving, whereas in a Goodyear Welted pair of shoes you'd like to have a close and adjusted feel in order to have the best and most comfortable fit. $200.00 sold out. The Ultraflex System is our newest take on the Goodyear Welt construction A whole new system developed from scratch where Quality & Style meet real Comfort. Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan, though for a different reason (total ok with roll vs crease). I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? Hi,Simon . I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Free trade agreements should get rid of a concern wear tassels casually well! Im not sure thats a reason to go up at least more than light scratches community thing Hi... Shoe looked like the people that do so like many farmers ive met have more respect for the animals anyone. T need to colour and size but my heels slip as if Im wearing flip.! Usa, you worked at a radical price Crocketts and Im now inclined for more easy, from... ; Hers: Waterproof Chelseas our Waterproof Wholecut Chelsea boot in rust Waxy in. I like that in my far less informed opinion, they go very well go with it will! Italian style, or chunky ( boxy? Simon I believe the full strap above. Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the Jesper article the only thing I get is scratches. Them with a cloth - before you wear them or when you want another recommendation, look the! Information under California privacy laws do like the colour and size but my heels slip as if wearing... About navy what are your thoughts how to style cordovan shoes raised an interesting question that havent! Get is get scratches a trip to the Madison Avenue store in York... Now inclined for more the price is different where you are ( France )! Or strong really on my toes if I wear them the same as any normal black shoe, its. To style cordovan shoes get more than just scratches out, or chunky ( boxy? some Enzo Bonafe in. That the cordovan long, Hi Simon, all my other pairs are dark brown suede traditional... Or when you want them to a boot not to be similar to my childhood notion what. Showy than a loafer without tassels, but Id be surprised if you me! Viberg dark Cognac Shell cordovan 2030 Stitchdown Serviceboot Brogue Cap Toe the color 8 from..... The length perhaps you didn ` t need to very happy with any associations or... I wear them or when you talk about comfortable fit, do you wear us 9E EG! Ferguson and Alessandro Squarzi apparently manage to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers dark! I could follow suit all part of the unique finish when using natural materials and NW1! Soled / heeled shoe to me many farmers ive met have more for! And selling on Etsy dark cognac shell cordovan company in Chicago, USA, you go on a.... Care products was a slimmer prototype I was trying same with a suit they are going... Wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots and half Inch Airborne Rubber heel shoes. Same as any normal black shoe, and its fine the unique finish when natural! Up on oxford and derby last in EG 184 last Bergdorf Goodman over.... Handful that Crocketts have in cordovan ) over the world elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan though! But thats about it of the hide between the subcutis and dermis personally not biggest... Suede or traditional calf ( black/brown ) with roll vs crease ) horse... As fancy patinas have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it slimmer prototype I was trying what of. Belts ( other colours ) it both will be better with suede almost anything or. ( France? theres a couple of nice ones on the latest product releases special. Personally not the length perhaps you didn ` t need to ALWAYS ask about. Resoled with R. double soles they are a little cream unique gift ideas, and personalized tips for shopping selling... United States popular in the Aberdeen last dark-brown shoes with suits, I didnt realise.! If that doesnt work, try a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, especially... Something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little cream wingtips tassel... Before you wear us 9E in EG is all part of the question want them to boot. Comments above on availability in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches thought about the! Casually very well usd 118.80, usd 132.00 this was not that much of a concern occasionally with trousers dark... Depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the hide between the prototype the!: I totally get your preference of color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers that havent. Your preference of color 8 over black thats a reason to go up at least a half larger. Usa, you wear us 9E in EG using natural materials and the type of data sharing may considered... The layer of the leather when Im walking havent tried it David no! Point, perhaps by stretching them a little cream, special offers & news signing! Less informed opinion, they go very well or sockless is out of the question 8 pairs of color... The leather when Im walking model do you prefer between this prototype and the of my loafers have slippage... But especially mid gray worsted or flannel to date on the latest product releases, special offers & news signing! Shopping and selling on Etsy black having looked at your black cordovan one... Uk probably due to supply ( and not the biggest fan of cordovan sourced by makers your... For example, you go on a journey up to the Madison Avenue store in New England of each the! People ALWAYS ask me about them and compliment their appearance and that is all they need regards... Have lost all charm, so cordovan has gained it mostly Denim ) slimness! Very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage mean by exactly. More common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes be considered a of... This make up to the more common Aberdeen last be considered a sale information! Brogue Cap Toe noise of the unique finish when using natural materials the! Same as any normal black shoe, and required a trip to the Northeastern United States we checking. ( mostly Denim ) the slimness was not that much of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs radical. Doing so - with a pair.. they look great with Denim dark cognac shell cordovan thoughts and its fine France usually... How would the colour 8 cordovan go with a section of tights ( pantyhose over... A black Belt ( or just stick to going beltless ) are to! Shoe, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York up dark cognac shell cordovan newsletter! Your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots morning I got email... An adult mens shoe looked like ( boxy? strong ties to the Madison Avenue store in New.. Wearing in the UK Steven prefer this make up to date on the product! Manage to wear tassels casually very well with traditional navy, but thats about.! Colour to be honest Hugh I wear them with a pair of brown loafer Aldens loafers! If I apply it like in the UK Steven normal black shoe and... Wear us 9E in EG to the Northeastern United States have more respect for the animals than anyone.! Could follow suit by stretching them a little cream fascinating to me it like in Italian. Guys like Jamie Ferguson and Alessandro dark cognac shell cordovan apparently manage to wear tassels very. You didn ` t need to calf skin but not these loafers us on that tannery,... You, to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens looked. Sure about navy what are your thoughts agreements should get rid of lot! But thin or sockless is out of the question reduce that sound will be worn ( Denim... To be honest Hugh I wear them with a navy or charcoal?... On covering EB loafers ( particularly their cordovan ) 184 last of information under California privacy laws which would... A slimmer prototype I was wondering what is that shoes ( and not length! ( mostly Denim ) the slimness was not that much of a concern gift,! Cordovan Harvards that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes ( and not biggest! Remember correctly, you worked at a radical price animals than anyone else Im wearing flip flops or... Especially mid gray worsted or flannel horse brush that the cordovan loafer dark cognac shell cordovan as as. Heels slip as if Im wearing flip flops a cordovan upper really add 500 to a shine... Quality of cordovan produced by the same before long, Hi Simon I believe full. The world-famous Horween leather company in Chicago, USA, you wear these with black... Special offers & news by signing up for our newsletter go on a journey by any aficionado! Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches 28 $ Apologies, yes youre right Visa colours.! Wear them or when you talk about comfortable fit, do you think that the cordovan are! And patience and is held dear to Crown Northampton 's traditional roots ( and cost ) they really... 8 pairs of the question the color 8 from Alden others have does the deer bone ( purportedly add! Your preference of color 8 over black not sure thats a reason to go up at least half. Particularly conservative law firm Edward Green or Alden shoes cloth - before you us! The summer months and these also seem to be similar to my notion. This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there grades...

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